Welcome to the 4Legs Wellness Page. This section is designed to provide your the pet owner, with useful and informative advice on caring for and ensuring the ongoing health & wellness of your dogs & cats. If there are any topics you would like to see covered here, please email us.

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Dog and Cat Nutrition - The Fundamentals
By Jonathon Woodroofe B.Sc(Hon) M.Sc - Animal Nutritionist

In many Australian households, pets, quite understandably, are considered part of the family. We must, however, recognise that when it comes to diet, the needs of our pets are somewhat different to our own. While it is not impossible to home produce a balanced diet for dogs and cats, it does require in-depth knowledge and considerable attention to detail, especially in regard to mineral and vitamin levels. Therefore, a good quality, professionally formulated pet food such as 4Legs is normally a better, more convenient option for most people and most pets.

Essentially, the requirements of a nutritionally complete diet for dogs and cats include energy, amino acids, glucose precursors, fatty acids, minerals, vitamins and, last but not least, water. Over the next few months we will be focusing on these elements and helping you understand your pets dietary requirements in more detail.

Aug 2005 - ENERGY:

All animals require energy to fuel the muscles, maintain body temperature and for processes such as developing new tissue. Dogs and cats source the energy they require from fats, proteins and carbohydrates. Gram for gram, fat provides more than twice as much useable energy than either protein or carbohydrate.

Breed, age, exercise level, and environmental conditions all have an influence on how much dietary energy is required by an adult dog or cat.

Energy requirement is also influenced by the breeding cycle. During gestation, particularly late gestation, energy needs increase and during lactation they can more than triple. It is therefore important to make sure extra food is available at these times and to increase feeding frequency by offering several meals per day.

Growing kittens and puppies require two to three times as much energy per unit of bodyweight than adults. This means in the early stages feeding several meals per day but, feeding frequency can generally be reduced by about six months of age. The amount of food offered to puppies, particularly larger breeds, should be monitored carefully to prevent obesity and ensure that an appropriate growth rate occurs for the breed in question.

The appetite of dogs and cats is influenced by their need for energy. Usually dogs and cats are able to maintain an ideal bodyweight by regulating the amount of food they eat. However, overeating and consequent obesity sometimes occurs. This tends to be more of a problem with dogs than with cats. The most common causes are a lack of exercise, boredom and overindulgent owners. Other contributing factors include; age (older dogs are more prone to obesity), genetics (breeds such as Labradors are particularly prone to obesity), gender (obesity is more common in female dogs than male dogs except in old age), reproductive status (neutering tends to increase the likelihood of obesity), and the bodyweight of owners (the incidence of obesity in dogs tends to be higher if their owners are overweight, perhaps because both owner and dog exercise less). Obesity is easier to prevent than to reverse. The weight and body condition of pets should be monitored continually and food intake controlled accordingly. It is particularly important to prevent young, growing animals becoming overweight because this can predispose them to becoming obese in later life.

4Legs Home Cooked products are designed to meet the maintenance needs of adult dogs. 4Legs Herbal products are recommended for feeding puppies and pregnant or lactating bitches (they can also be used to meet the maintenance needs of adult dogs). 4Legs cat food products are designed to meet the maintenance needs of adult cats and are also suitable for kittens and pregnant or lactating queens. Please refer to the feeding guidelines for Dog Food and Cat Food on the respective product pages.

Stay tuned next month for the next installment of The Fundamentals of Cat & Dog Nutrition.
This article was written by Jonathan M. Woodroofe B.Sc.(Hons), M.Sc. - Animal Nutritionist. If you have any further queries about the information contained in this article, or have any other animal nutrition queries, please send us an email to contact@4legs.com.au.

Sep 2005 - PROTEIN & AMINO ACIDS

After focussing on the Energy component of the diet last month, this month we delve into the world of Protein & Amino Acids.

Cats evolved as dedicated carnivores. Their metabolism and digestive system is adapted to a high protein, meat based diet. They can utilise some plant material in their diet but certain nutrients they need for survival are only found naturally in animal products. Dogs on the other hand are more opportunist carnivores. They are also well adapted to a high protein, meat based diet but they need proportionally less protein in their food than cats and they could, if necessary, derive all the nutrients they need for survival from plant materials.

Protein is used both as an energy source and as a source of amino acids. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein molecules. During digestion, protein molecules are broken down into amino acids, which are then absorbed, mainly in the small intestine. There are around 25 different amino acids found naturally in proteins. Most of these occur in the body tissues of dogs and cats, but many of them do not need to be specifically included in the diet since dogs and cats can rapidly manufacture them within their bodies. There are, however, ten amino acids for dogs and the same ten plus an extra one for cats that cannot be manufactured at a fast enough rate within the body to meet the needs of these animals. These are known as essential amino acids and they must be included in the diet. Essential amino acids for dogs and cats include arginine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, threonine, tryptophan and valine. The extra essential amino acid required by cats is called taurine. Taurine is not present in vegetable proteins (such as, cereal proteins, beans, lentils, peas, etc.), but occurs in abundance in animal protein (such as, chicken, turkey, lamb, beef and fish). An adequate quantity of taurine is required in a cat’s diet, as a deficiency can lead to feline heart and eye disorders.

In addition to amino acid composition, it is also important to consider one other aspect when selecting protein sources and preparation methods for dog and cat foods. The source of a protein and the type of processing applied both have an influence on digestibility. The protein in fresh meat is generally highly digestible, but excessive cooking can reduce digestibility. 4Legs dog and cat foods utilise fresh meat products as a primary protein source. They are then produced into Dog Food and Cat Food using a carefully controlled cooking process which gently steam-cooks the meat to preserve the proteins and minerals.

Stay tuned next month for the third instalment of The Fundamentals of Dog and Cat Nutrition. Until then, if you have any queries for our Animal Nutritionist, Jonathan Woodroofe, please email us at contact@4legs.com.au.

Oct 2005 - CARBOHYDRATES AND GLUCOSE PRECURSORS:

The term carbohydrate refers to a group of compounds that includes sugars, starches and dietary fibre.

All animals use glucose as an energy supply for organs and tissues and as a basis from which to produce other essential compounds such as, glycoproteins and vitamin C. Most people know that glucose is a sugar and that it is produced during the digestion of complex carbohydrates, such as starches. What is less well known is that animals can produce glucose using fat and protein. Cats and dogs can in fact survive quite well without a dietary supply of glucose or carbohydrate provided they consume adequate amounts of protein and fat (this may not be true during late gestation and lactation when the requirement for glucose increases).

Despite the fact that dogs, and more particularly cats, are adapted to a diet that is high in protein and relatively low in carbohydrate, they can digest sugars and starches quite well if these are included in the diet in moderate amounts. In fact carbohydrates tend to present less of a challenge to the digestive system that do high levels of fats. A notable exception to this generalisation is the milk sugar, lactose. This can present a problem with adult dogs and cats, since the ability of these animals to digest lactose often decreases dramatically after weaning (consequently, excessive feeding of dairy products to adult dogs and cats can cause diarrhoea). Raw starch can also be difficult to digest, therefore cooking of starchy ingredients (such as rice, maize and wheat) is recommended as this helps aid digestion. 4Legs products include controlled levels of digestible, cooked, carbohydrates to serve as a readily available energy source.

The role of dietary fibre in dog and cat nutrition is not clearly understood. Some dietary fibre is needed to maintain gastrointestinal motility and health; however, elevated fibre levels can interfere with the digestion and absorption of other nutrients. 4Legs products incorporate moderate levels of soluble and insoluble fibre.

Stay tuned next month for the next instalment to The Fundamentals of Dog and Cat Nutrition.

Nov 2005 - ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS

Fats/oils enhance the palatability of pet foods and function as a concentrated energy source. They also serve as a carrier for fat-soluble vitamins (vitamins A, D, E and K) and as a source of essential fatty acids.

Fatty acids are major components of animal fats, fish oils and vegetable oils. It was discovered early in the 20th century that if young animals are fed a fat/oil free diet they cease to grow, develop skin and hair problems, experience kidney malfunction, and are unable to reproduce. In the original experiment all of these conditions were corrected by adding corn or flaxseed oil to the diet. The main components of these oils, linoleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid, were found to be the active ingredients rectifying the above problems and were thus named essential fatty acids.

Since that time specific research with dogs and cats has established that a dietary supply of fatty acids belonging to the linoleic acid family is essential for both dogs and cats. This type of fatty acid occurs in abundance in vegetable oils, such as sunflower seed oil, and has a positive effect on skin and coat condition. It has also been discovered that cats, but not dogs, require a dietary supply of another fatty acid, arachidonic acid, which needs to be met by feeding some animal fat or fish oil. Linoleic acid and arachindonic acid are both omega-6 fatty acids.

A specific, quantified requirement for alpha-linolenic acid in dogs and cats has not been established, however, there is evidence that adding this type of fatty acid to the diet can be beneficial. Alpha-linolenic acid is an omega-3 fatty acid. It is a major component of flaxseed oil and also occurs in significant quantities in other vegetable oils, such as canola oil (fish oil supplies other types of omega-3 fatty acids). Omega-3 type fatty acids appear to have anti-inflammatory and other beneficial health effects in humans and animals when consumed in conjunction with omega-6 fatty acids.

4Legs products use a varied range of fat/oil sources including chicken fat, beef fat, sunflower oil and fish oil to ensure that the energy and fatty acid requirements of dogs and cats are adequately met.

Dec 2005 - MINERALS

Minerals are vital components of many enzyme systems and they are essential for the maintenance of tissues, a balanced pH level, and a strong immune system. The essential dietary minerals are usually divided into two groups. The first group, termed ‘macro-minerals’, includes calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, potassium, sodium and chloride. These macro-minerals occur naturally in foodstuffs in relatively large quantities (usually one or more grams per kilo). The second group, termed ‘trace-minerals’, includes iron, copper, manganese, zinc, iodine, and selenium. These trace-minerals occur naturally in foodstuffs in much smaller quantities (usually, one tenth of a gram or less per kilo).

Care needs to be exercised when including minerals within a canine or feline diet, since some minerals, whilst essential in small quantities, can be toxic if fed in excessive amounts. For example, the mineral iodine is needed in small amounts to prevent thyroid problems in dogs and cats but it can be detrimental to them - causing anorexia, fever and weight loss - if fed in excessive amounts. Sometimes excessive mineral levels can be fed without the pet owner realising that the potential for a problem to occur exists. For example, supplementing the diet with large amounts of kelp meal, which is very high in iodine, can result in excessive iodine intake.

It is also important to recognise that dietary minerals can interact with each other. As a consequence, the amount of a particular mineral that is required by a dog or cat can be influenced by the amount of other minerals that the animal is consuming. For example, adult dogs and cats generally require a minimum of around six grams of calcium per kilo of dry food. However, the precise amount of calcium needed in a dog or cat’s diet partially depends on how much phosphorus is present. For cats the ratio of calcium to phosphorus should be kept in the range 0.5:1 to 2:1, whilst for dogs an appropriate range is 1:1 to 2:1. This might seem academic, but problems stemming from an unbalanced calcium to phosphorus ratio often occur where home prepared, meat based diets are fed for prolonged periods. Meat is rich in phosphorus but deficient in calcium. Prolonged feeding of an improperly supplemented, meat based diet can lead to demineralisation of the bones, problems with the skeleton and skeletal muscles and even paralysis.

Finally the role of dietary minerals in causing or preventing urological problems in cats is worthy of special attention. Cats are prone to developing mineralised deposits (struvite crystals and uroliths) in their urinary tracts. The most common crystalline component of these deposits is magnesium ammonium phosphate and because of this excessive magnesium levels in the diet are often blamed for the problem. Whilst it is true that high levels of dietary magnesium do appear to predispose cats to this problem, many other factors are also involved. Magnesium is essential for healthy bones and teeth. It is also needed to maintain proper muscle and nervous tissue function. If urinary tract problems are an issue with your cat it is important to select a good quality food that not only contains controlled levels of magnesium, but that also promotes the production of normal acidic urine. A variety of food constituents, including protein components, mineral salts and some types of lipids influence urine pH.

4Legs products are carefully formulated taking into account mineral requirements, mineral interactions and the effect of dietary constituents on urine pH.

Stay tuned next month for our final instalment to The Fundamentals of Dog and Cat Nutrition, where we will explore the issue of vitamins.

Mar 2006 - VITAMINS

Guess what? Your mum was right all this time. Vitamins are essential (in small amounts) for the maintenance of animal life. There are two types of vitamins: fat-soluble (vitamins A, D, E and K) and water-soluble (vitamin B complex and vitamin C). If the level of fat-soluble vitamins in the diet is slightly above an animal’s requirements excess fat-soluble vitamins can be stored in body fat or the liver for future use. Well-fed animals can thus usually cope with a short-term interruption in the supply of fat-soluble vitamins. Water-soluble vitamins cannot be stored in the body. Any water-soluble vitamins in excess of requirements are rapidly excreted. Thus animals are dependent on an uninterrupted dietary supply of water-soluble vitamins and cannot cope well with even short-term deprivation.

The fat-soluble vitamins A, D and E are essential in the diets of dogs and cats. These vitamins have various important functions in the body and are vital for the maintenance of healthy eyes and skin, strong bones and teeth, reproductive health and an efficient immune system.

It is interesting to note that dogs can meet their vitamin A needs from vegetables but cats cannot. The reason for this is that a dog’s body can easily produce its supply of vitamin A from the nutrient “beta-carotene” which is found in green and orange vegetables. Cats are unable to convert ‘‘beta-carotene” to vitamin A. Therefore, cats must be provided with fully formed vitamin A (which is not found in plant material) in their diets. Vitamin A plays an essential role in visual health.

An American Nutritionist once commented that “vitamin E is one of the main compounds preventing living creatures from rotting where they stand”. To explain this a little more scientifically; essential life processes, such as breathing, result in the production of oxygen based compounds called “free radicals” within the body. These compounds are highly reactive and can cause deterioration in cell membranes and other tissues. Compounds that can neutralise these harmful free radicals are known as antioxidants. Vitamin E is a powerful natural antioxidant. It binds free radicals and renders them harmless. Vitamin E also plays a role in hormone metabolism.

Vitamin K plays an essential role in blood clotting and protein building. Dogs and cats have a bodily need for vitamin K but a dietary supply is not thought to be vital for these animals because the bacteria present in their large intestines appear to be able to produce enough of vitamin K to meet their requirements. It is, however, usually considered wise to include a small amount of supplementary vitamin K in cat foods, especially where fish is the main ingredient. The reason for this is that some years ago vitamin K deficiency symptoms appear to have been observed in a group of cats fed on a particular type of canned-fish based food. It is not entirely clear why deficiency symptoms occurred in this instance, however, it may be that some factor in the fish based products interfered with the absorption or bacterial production of vitamin K.

B complex vitamins have various important functions within the body; they are vital for energy production and a healthy functioning nervous system. In comparison to dogs, cats have a relatively high requirement for B complex vitamins (Thiamine B1, Riboflavin B2, Pyridoxine B6, Pantothenic Acid, Niacin, B12, Folic Acid and Biotin). Cat foods therefore need to contain higher levels of most B complex vitamins than dog foods.

In the terrestrial world, only man and other primates, guinea pigs, the fruit eating bat and the red-vented bulbul bird are unable to produce their own supply of vitamin C, and are therefore completely dependent on a dietary supply. All other species, including dogs and cats, appear to be able to produce enough vitamin C from glucose within their bodies to meet their normal needs. However, whilst it is generally not necessary to add vitamin C to dog and cat foods, it may be useful to do so for growing, pregnant, lactating or stressed dogs and cats where the body’s demand for both vitamin C and glucose (the raw material used to make the vitamin C) is high.

Finally, it is important to note that several vitamins are fairly unstable and that heat, moisture, rancid fats, light, some mineral elements, and some preservatives can destroy their goodness. It is vital to take account of this when formulating dog and cat food products. Ideally over-cooking of vitamins should be avoided, as should preservatives that destroy their goodness. This is one of the reasons that 4Legs avoid preservatives in its Home Cooked dog and cat foods. This also helps explain why 4Legs add the vitamins to their home cooked dog food range as a coating to the meat, after the cooking process is complete, so as to protect the vitamins and maintain as much benefit as possible for feeding to our 4-legged friends.

May 2006 - WATER

Water is often overlooked in discussions about nutrition, but it is in fact the single most important nutrient in the diet. All living cells need water in order to be able to function properly. The body requires water for the digestion of food, excretion of body wastes, regulation of body temperature, distribution of nutrients, lubrication of tissues and a myriad of other functions. About sixty percent of the body of an adult dog or cat is water.

Water is continually lost from the body of dogs and cats through breathing, urination, through the skin, in faeces and also, with lactating bitches and queens, in milk. The amount of water lost depends on factors such as, environmental temperature, exercise level and physiological state. Under normal circumstances dogs and cats are able to self regulate their water intake to compensate for losses and hence maintain a constant body water content. It is, however, important to recognise that they can only do this if they have ready access to water. Water deprivation can cause serious problems much more rapidly than food deprivation. In fact, whilst dogs and cats can survive the loss of nearly all their fat reserves and almost half of their body protein stores, a twenty percent loss in body water results in death.

In addition to drinking it directly, cats and dogs obtain some of the water they need from the food they eat. Some water is produced chemically within their bodies by oxidation of nutrients such as fats, carbohydrates and proteins. Most foods also contain significant amounts of pre-formed water. The moisture content of commercial pet foods varies from about eight percent in dry foods up to almost eighty percent in some canned foods. Cats and dogs do adjust the amount of water they drink to compensate for this variation in food moisture content, but it has been found with cats that this compensatory mechanism is not exact. Total water intake and excretion rates tend to be higher when cats are fed moist as opposed to dry diets. This is important for cats prone to lower urinary tract problems (due to ‘crystalline’ growths) since moist foods may be preferable for these animals due to the fact that they increase urine volume and decrease urine concentration in comparison to dry foods.

4Legs recommend that clean fresh water should be available to dogs and cats at all times (remember that during lactation and in hot weather water requirements can be up to two or more times their normal level).

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Pet Foods & Pet Health
By Jonathon Woodroofe B.Sc(Hon) M.Sc - Animal Nutritionist

Aug 2006 - HEALTH & NUTRITION

Selecting a healthy diet for our pets can be challenging. Many of us tend to look for the individual ingredients on product labels that are regarded as beneficial. For instance, we may select a pet food that is advertised as being high in Omega 3 fatty acids, or that contains Kelp, or other such ‘healthy’ ingredients. Although these ingredients may well be a healthy choice, the presence of a particular ingredient does not guarantee that a food is the best choice for your pet. This article aims to encourage you to take a more holistic approach to choosing a diet for your pet.

There are several issues you should consider:

It is important to ensure your pet receives adequate quantities of all the different nutrients required to maintain health and vitality. These include:

• Protein
• Carbohydrates
• Mineral
• Fat
• Vitamins
• Water

When adequate amounts and correct proportions of these nutrients are achieved, your pet’s diet is said to be complete and balanced.

An easy way to ensure this is to feed your pet a food that is guaranteed by the supplier to be complete and balanced. A reputable manufacturer will go to great lengths to ensure their product meets recognised international scientific standards before providing such a guarantee.

However, it is important to realise that some pet food products, such as fresh meat products, are not specifically formulated to supply a complete and balanced range of nutrients and will not carry a guarantee. Should you choose to use these products as the basis of your pet’s diet, it may be necessary to feed additional supplements, like vitamin and mineral preparations. Often, it can be hard to determine exactly which supplements are needed without assistance from a vet or animal nutritionist.

When choosing a food for our pets, comparing nutrient values in different products can be very instructive. Remember, always compare like products, for instance compare dry pet food products against each other, rather than against a canned or fresh chilled product. Always consider the following:

• Higher levels of fat and protein may indicate that the food has been designed to be fed in smaller quantities. Often this is desirable, as smaller serves means the cost of each meal ends up similar in price to that of cheaper, less concentrated products. Remember, fats and protein tend to be highly palatable, so monitor your pet’s consumption (to avoid overeating) and check the feeding guide carefully.
• High fat levels may also indicate that the product contains a relatively high energy level, therefore more suitable for highly active pets, rather than animals that do not get a lot of exercise.
• Excessively high salt levels (Sodium Chloride) are undesirable. It may indicate that salt is being used for non-nutritional purposes, such as improved palatability and in the case of dry/semi-moist products, prevention of mould growth.
• Saturated fats derived from animals are an excellent source of energy, whilst Poly-unsaturated fats, from vegetables, help maintain skin and coat condition, whilst supporting the immune system.
• a good quality product will usually contain both.

Always read the ingredient list and ensure you are happy with all the ingredients used.

Most importantly, always monitor your pet’s response to its diet. Skin or digestive problems such as diarrhoea or excessive gas are signs that it is time to review your feeding program. Controlling the energy/food intake and exercise regime of your pet so they maintain an ideal body weight is one of the best things you can do to promote longevity and on-going good health.

Sep 2006 - NUTRITION & THE OLDER DOG

These days, dogs, like humans, are living longer. Better nutrition and veterinary care are pushing back the onset of debilitating illnesses and extending our pet’s lifespan. This change in dog demographics is mirroring the changes in the human population, and the number of “puppy boomers” is growing.

We know that young, rapidly growing dogs require a different diet to adult animals. However, we assume that once dogs reach maturity, a good quality adult diet will be suitable for the rest of their lives. Is this really the case, or is there a genuine need for specialised geriatric dog foods? What should we consider when feeding our older dogs?

The answer is not simple; dogs are individuals, and can develop a range of health problems in later life. The most obvious issue is obesity. Most foods designed for older dogs are formulated on the assumption that aging dogs are less active, overweight, suffer some form of kidney impairment and possibly, high blood pressure. So these foods are designed to supply fewer calories and more fibre in order to target gut health and obesity. They also contain lower levels of protein, phosphorous and sodium in order to minimise the strain on kidneys and stabilise blood pressure.

This may seem like a sensible approach, but keep in mind that a large number of older dogs are in fact underweight, rather than overweight. Therefore, in order to maintain optimum health, underweight senior dogs may actually require a food with higher levels of nutrients (e.g. protein), rather than a lower one.

An easy way to reduce your dog’s intake of calories, salt and protein is to decrease the amount of good quality food your dog consumes each day. The key term here is “good quality” – consider the following factors when choosing a dog food:

• A good quality diet should be based on highly digestible proteins – if your dog has a weaker digestive system, these proteins are easier to handle.
• Proteins must have the right balance of amino acids to meet your dog’s requirements – your dog’s digestive system breaks proteins down into amino acids, these are then absorbed and used to maintain muscle and tissue proteins. A poor balance of amino acids means your dog’s metabolic system has to work harder to convert large amounts of unusable protein into waste product, and this puts extra strain on the kidneys.
• A good quality adult dog food will contain levels of vitamins and minerals that will meet your dog’s requirements, even if fed in smaller amounts.
• Food should contain good levels of dietary fibre, as this is important for all stages of adult life.

So, when feeding your aging dog, remember:

• Pick a good quality food based on highly digestible proteins – lightly cooked chicken, beef or lamb are good options.
• Feed the right amount – if your dog is putting on weight, cut back on the amount of food offered.
• Encourage your dog to exercise sensibly – don’t expect an old dog to run around like a puppy, but regular walks will ensure your dog remains active.
• See your vet for advice if you have specific concerns about your dog’s health.

Our pets are an important part of our lives and families, and by making good choices about their diet you will help them live longer, healthier and happier lives.

Dec 2006 - KEEPING PETS HEALTHY AND HAPPY IN HOT WEATHER

Part 1 - Heat Issues

Summer is on its way and it is important to be aware of the impact of hot weather on your pets. Dogs and cats will modify their behaviour to minimise the effect of hot conditions, so you may notice that your pets are less active and seek out cool areas when things get uncomfortably warm.

Heat Stroke
Dogs and cats rely mainly on panting to keep cool. Panting causes evaporative cooling, as air is forced in and out of the airways over the moist tongue. This is a less efficient cooling method than sweating, and pets can suffer from potential fatal heat stroke in certain circumstances. Older, overweight animals are more vulnerable to the heat than their younger, slimmer counterparts and, thick-coated or short-faced breeds (such as Boxers or Pugs) are at greater risk than shorthaired or longer faced breeds.

Unfortunately, owners can unthinkingly cause problems for their pets in hot weather. Probably the greatest cause of heat stroke in pets is confinement in parked cars. Never leave your pet alone in a parked car in summer, even if you have left a window slightly open. The temperature inside a parked vehicle can quickly rise to dangerous levels (this also applies to kennels located in unshaded areas).

Another common cause of heat stroke in dogs is overexertion. Dogs will push themselves beyond their limit if encouraged to do so by their owners. Do not force your dog to run beside you as you ride along on your bicycle, and don’t initiate an extended game of fetch on a blazing summer’s day.

Signs of heat stroke include:

• intense panting
• glazed eyes
• rapid heartbeat
• lack of coordination.

If you observe these symptoms, take the following steps to gradually lower your pet’s body temperature:

• Immerse your pet in a basin of cool water or use a hose to spray the animal, making sure that you thoroughly wet the chest, belly and inside the legs.
• Allow your pet to drink small amounts of cool water or lick ice cubes.
• Seek veterinary assistance as soon as possible.

Other hot weather issues worth remembering:

• Dogs and cats don’t wear shoes, so hot concrete or asphalt (often sticky on the hottest days) can burn their paws.
• Dogs and cats can get sunburn, particularly round the eyes, ears and nose. Sunblock can be used, but make sure it is designed for use on pets.

Part 2 - Food Issues

There are several important food-related issues that pet owners need to consider during the summer months.

Reduced Appetite
Dogs and cats will tend to eat less and drink more during periods of hot weather. As discussed in Part 1, pets tend to be less active in the heat, so less energy is used and in turn, less food is required. So, a reduced appetite is not usually a problem. However, it is worth making sure that a highly palatable, good quality food is fed when the weather is hot, particularly if your pet is underweight or prone to weight loss.

Fresh Meat
Fresh meat-based pet foods, such as 4legs Home Cooked products should be treated just like fresh meat-based products intended for human consumption. Fresh products will spoil in hot weather! Do not purchase fresh pet food products in the morning then leave them in the boot of a hot car all day, before putting them in the fridge in the evening. Also, do not add fresh product to food bowls that still contain uneaten food from a previous meal.

Silly Season Scraps
As we approach the festive season, it is worth noting that rich Christmas foods or barbeque scraps can be harmful to pets. Pets are often given quite large quantities of these foods during the summer holiday period. But because they are not accustomed to such a diet, this often causes digestive upset resulting in vomiting and diarrhoea. Foods that are very fatty (such as trimmings off the Christmas ham) can sometimes trigger a more serious condition in dogs - namely pancreatitis. So it is probably best to avoid feeding rich food scraps altogether, but if you really can’t help yourself, small morsels given as a treat are unlikely to be harmful.

Finally, during summer remember that both food and drinking bowls should be kept clean and placed in a cool area. Keep drinking bowls in the shade and top them up regularly; drinking water prevents dehydration and helps to keep your pet cool.

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Training Series -
By Arthur Webster & Associates Pty Ltd.

Nov 2005 - DESTRUCTIVENESS - CHEWING

Why dogs chew? It is a normal behaviour for puppies to investigate their environment by sniffing, tasting and perhaps chewing on objects throughout the home. Dogs that chew may also be scavenging for food (e.g. garbage raiding), playing (e.g. chewing apart a book or couch), teething (dogs 3 to 6 months of age that chew on household objects), or satisfying a natural urge to chew and gnaw (which may serve to help keep teeth and gums healthy). Some dogs may chew because they receive attention (even if it is negative) or treats from the owners each time they chew, and the owners are inadvertently rewarding the behaviour. Chewing and destructive behaviours may also be a response to anxiety. Dogs that are confined in areas where they are insecure may dig and chew in an attempt to escape. Dogs that are in a state of conflict, arousal or anxiety, such as separation anxiety, may turn to chewing and other forms of destructiveness as an outlet.

How can chewing be treated? First, determine why the dog is chewing. If the dog is a puppy or young adult dog that is chewing at a variety of objects in the household, it is likely that play and investigation (and perhaps teething) is the motive. Dogs that raid garbage and steal food off counters are obviously motivated by the presence and odour of food. Some dogs are attempting to escape confinement while in others chewing may be an outlet for anxiety. Determining the cause and motivation for chewing is therefore essential in developing a treatment strategy" Directing the chewing into appealing alternatives, sufficient play and exercise, and prevention of inappropriate chewing are needed for the exploratory dog. You must ensure that you are not inadvertently rewarding the behaviour. Inattention or disruption devices may be useful for these dogs. If the dog is a puppy this behaviour may decrease in time, provided you direct the chewing to proper outlets. Dogs that are raiding the garbage or food stealing need to be treated by supervision, prevention and booby traps, since the behaviour itself is self-rewarding. Dogs that are destructive to escape confinement must learn to become comfortable and secure with the cage or room where they are to be confined. Alternatively a new confinement area may have to be chosen. Dogs that are destructive as an outlet for anxiety, will need to have the cause of the anxiety diagnosed, and the problem appropriately treated.

How can proper chewing be encouraged? Before considering how inappropriate chewing might be discouraged the real key is to provide some appropriate outlets for your dog's chewing "needs." Begin with a few toys with a variety of tastes, odours, and textures to determine what appeals most to the pet. Although plastic, nylon or rubber toys may be the most durable, products that can be torn apart such as rawhide or pigs ears may be more like the natural prey and wood products that attract most dogs. Coating toys with liver or cheese spread or peanut butter may also increase their desirability. The Kong is a durable chew toy, but its appeal can be greatly enhanced by placing a piece of cheese or liver inside and then filling it tight with biscuits. Placing soup items or food into the Kong and freezing it, or freezing food items in "Popsicle" makers and placing them in the dogs food bowl may provide a little longer durability to the treats.

Numerous other play toys are also available that provide a means for stuffing food or treats inside, so that the dog has to "work" to get its reward. To ensure that your puppy is encouraged and rewarded for chewing on its toys, and discouraged from chewing on all other objects, it must be supervised at all times. Whenever s:upervision is not possible, you must prevent access to any object or area that might be chewed. Although play periods and chew toys may be sufficient for most pets, additional activities such as self-feeders, other pets, interactive toys, and even videos may help to keep pets occupied.

How else can my dog's activity be reduced? The needs of most working dogs are usually satisfied with daily work sessions (retrieving, herding, sledding, etc), while non-working house-pets will require alternative forms of activity to meet their requirements for work and play. Games such as chasings, hide and seek, retrieving, catching a ball or Frisbee, jogging, or even long walks are often an acceptable alternative to work, allow the dog an opportunity to expend unused energy, and provide regular attention periods. Obedience training, agility classes and simply teaching your dog a few tricks are not only pleasant interactive activities for you and your dog, but they also provide some stimulation and "work" to the dog's daily schedule.

How can I stop the chewing on household objects? The only way that chewing might be deterred when your dog cannot be supervised is to booby-trap the areas where the dog might chew. To be successful the punishment must be noxious enough to immediately deter the pet. Taste or odour aversion is often the simplest and most practical type of booby trap but many pets will have to be conditioned in advance to detest the smell or taste by squirting anti-chew spray (e.g. bitter apple) into the pet's mouth or across its nose. A small amount of cayenne pepper mixed with water, oil of citronella or commercial anti-chew sprays may also be successful as deterrents. Alternatively the spray could be placed on any object that the dog might chew and a fishing line can be attached from the object to a stack of empty cans on a nearby table or counter. At the instant chewing begins the stack will come crashing down. Most dogs are then conditioned after a few events to avoid the particular taste or odour for fear of another "can attack". A shock mat, alarm mat, mousetrap trainers, indoor invisible fencing, motion detectors or cap devices are a few other examples of environmental punishment. Arriving home and punishing a pet for an act that is already completed will only serve to increase the pet's anxiety.

What if the dog continues to chew household objects? Whenever you cannot supervise or monitor your dog's behaviour, he or she should be confined to a cage or dog-proof room with any potential chewing sites effectively booby trapped. Alternatively, a basket type muzzle can be used for short departures.

A Lifelearn product from: Arthur Webster & Associates Pty Ltd PO Box 438 Pymble NSW 2073

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Veterinary Series -
By Dr. Alan R Clarke (B.V.Sc), Castlemaine Veterinary Clinic

Oct 2005 - DIET & ECZEMA

Spring & Summer sees the highest incidence of allergic dermatitis (eczema) in domestic pets, most commonly dogs.

Effective treatment/prevention of this condition requires finding the cause of the allergy. Unfortunately this is usually difficult and expensive. Consequently it is common to simply rely on treating of the symptoms with drugs, generally anti-inflammatories. While certainly cheaper, and in the short term the animal is happier, these drugs often have undesirable side-effects (such as weight gain and increased thirst in the short term).

When blood testing is done, it is common to find numerous agents causing the allergy, rarely just one. This gives us the option of a different approach. The eczema could be seen like a glass of water. Lots of drops fill the glass, and finally it only takes a single drop to make it overflow. That last single drop may be blamed for the overflow, but every drop is important.

In an animal with multiple allergies, if you can eliminate several of the agents (causes), the dog may well be able to cope better with the others. It is very common to find that some of the important agents are airborne pollens, grasses, fleas, household dust mites and fungi, and various ingested proteins and chemicals.

If you ensure that your pets are flea-free, reduce dust-mites and fungi from the environment and think about his diet, he is more likely to be able to cope with the grasses and airborne pollens which you can’t eradicate.

In improving your dog’s diet, eliminating food with artificial colouring, flavouring and preservatives is a worthwhile first step. 4Legs Pet Food is a great alternative that I recommend to many of my patients, with fantastic results. The other important dietary step is to change what is usually referred to as a “novel protein”. A “novel protein” is one which hasn’t been a normal part of the diet to date. People often mistakenly say “change to chicken” or “remove red meat from the diet”. This is true only if chicken hasn’t been fed to your dog in the past. If your pet has always been fed chicken and never any red meat, then changing to red meat may well be of benefit. Normally however, red meat is the basis of our pet’s diets, especially those fed on commercial diets. In particular, the cheaper brands of pet food (including dry food) are based on whichever meat product is cheapest. This is usually mutton or beef, but may also include horse, kangaroo etc. Consequently, in many cases changing to a chicken based diet would be a worthwhile trial. 4Legs Home Cooked Chicken varieties contain no red meat and would be a useful and suitable alternative in this instance.

Ensuring the diet has a good supply of vitamins and minerals is also essential. In times of stress or disease the usual recommendations may not be sufficient. The body needs extras at these times. Of particular importance in this case are Vitamins A and D, Zinc, and a balanced supply of Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids, but be careful not to overdose on any of these. Excesses of some vitamins and minerals may be dangerous (recommended levels will be different for every size of dog, so it is best to seek the advice of your vet in this case).